Kärlingerhaus (1631m) to Wasseralm (1416m)

At breakfast I heard that the Wimbachgriesshütte was also open too (I want to stay at the Watzmannhaus, which was to the west), but Frode was still keen to head east. The weather wasn’t too bad this morning (it’s all relative right). We could see the mountains with very overcast skies and the promise of rain. Not far from the hut we saw a marmot. I’ll never tire of these guys.


We retraced our steps back to the junction from yesterday (about 2 hours) with a nice stop at the Grünersee (Green Lake) along the way. Frode went for a dip in it! Brrr.


The next (new) leg was good, even though we were in some fog. There was the odd snow drift to negotiate and the trees coming into the hut were lovely hovering in the mist. Frode exclaimed that it wouldn’t surprise him if we met some German trolls given the setting, and I have to agree with  him. We stood on top of one of the surrounding knolls and took a photo of the view (we could see about 10 metres). We arrived at the hut around 1pm and were happy to put our shoes and things in another drying room.

Frode then told me that after the next night he would take a few days off from hiking. What the ?!?! He’d flown down from Oslo to hike with me for 8-9 days and today was only day 3 together (day 2 of our multi-day trip). Stupidly I’d already given him my share of the hire car costs for the week and I had my non-hiking belongings in the hire car, which was hired under his name. Scheiza. I was further upset by the fact that he was doing this after we went his way that morning – I could have gone in the direction I wanted to go instead but now it was too late in the day for that.

I was pretty hurt and angry and went off for a post lunch wander to try and work out what my next move  would be. I headed up the creek with views of cascades and a waterfall coming out of a cave.


I stood next to this cave and under a large tree in the rain for about 40 minutes before I could get my emotions in check. I still didn’t know what to do, but I now knew what questions I would ask people I met to try and work out a plan.


I then carried on walking further upstream and off track, trying to take note of which way I was walking since each direction looked almost the same. I saw deer (including 2 babies!) and just enjoyed having the whole area to myself. This area reminded me of a lot of NZ.

When I arrived back at the hut a number of other groups had arrived (oddly enough, they were all male). I ordered a slice of chocolate-cherry cake (delicious) and chatted to the guys. Everyone else had come from the other direction and some groups had had an adrenaline filled day trying to find their way through the snow in a complete white out along the high route. Their adventurous tales and general conversation turned my afternoon around and improved my mood immensely!

Afternoon views from the hut

A lovely and fresh vegetable stew was served for dinner and then we all received a free dessert. The food at this hut was especially good. It looked like I was going to be the only female walker at the hut for the night; then at 7:30pm a group of 3 ladies and 1 guy showed up.

I think hardly anyone slept this night because the soccer club who shown up got completely and utterly drunk and ignored the 10pm “quiet time” hut rule.


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